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This
article was found on the internet news groups and is intended only as a
general help guide not an exact perfect method.
Lets say you have a typical ride with a stock paint job, that is
alright, but it does show it’s age with a bit of sun fade, rock chips,
and a couple dings here and there............
So you're wanting a new paint job, here are some of the basic steps that
will get you there
1...Start removing anything that can be removed that will not get
painted, like the bumpers, emblems, chrome trim, lights, and stuff like
that.
2...Wash your car.. Use a grease fighting dish soap like dawn
3... Block sand your whole car with 220-320 wet sand paper. Block
sanding will not only keep your surface smooth and level, but will also
provide tooth for the primer to come, and show you were the low spots
are (dings)
4...After block sanding and finding your dings (they will be the only
spots left shiny) use a marker or chalk and mark them by drawing a
circle at least an inch around them.
5...Get a drill and attach one of those plastic grinding discs, and
grind those spots down to metal. you can use a DA sander also
6...Clean off the area, it’s important that it is free of dust and oil
5...Prepare your filler and apply it to the area, then wait for it to
cure.
6...After curing, block sand the body filler with 80 - 100 grit dry sand
paper until it’s level with the rest of the body.
7...Clean off the area again and check for pinholes in the filler. Also
clean off the area were you have rock chips
8...Use a 2 part glazing potty to fill any pin holes in your body work,
and the rock chips.
9...level out the glazing putty by lightly block sanding it with 220-320
wet sand paper.
10…wash your car again
11…Roll your ride into your paint booth (or garage, shop, plastic
enclosed carport or anywhere else you plan to paint it in)
12… start masking off your windows, and anything else you don’t want to
paint that you couldn’t remove.
13… use wheel covers or jack up the car and remove the wheels, and leave it on jack stands
14… wipe down the whole car with a tack cloth to remove any dust
15… wipe down your car again with wax and grease cleaner, (or reducer)
and let dry
16… as the cleaner is drying, start mixing up your high build primer, if
you have any bodywork on the car it is always a good idea to cover it up
in high build primer.
17… spray a spot pass over you body work first before spraying 1 to 3
coats of high build primer over the whole car, (make sure the pattern
overlaps by 10- 25%) waiting 15 to 30 minutes
between coats for it to flash.
18… After spraying your last coat, make sure you clean out your gun
before doing anything else.
19… carefully remove all the masking on the car, and let it sit
overnight.
20… roll out your ride and begin block sanding with 400-600 wet until
its nice and smooth
21… Open up your doors and remove any weather stripping, and plastic
moldings, as well as your door panels, and mask anything else including
the doorjambs , under the hood or where ever you don‘t want to paint.
22… wash your car again, and roll it back in the booth and mask
23… wipe down the car with a tack cloth followed by cleaning it with wax
and grease cleaner (or reducer).
24… Mix up your base, and spray at least 2-4 coats of your base, waiting
15 to 30 minutes for it to flash between coats. (make sure to overlap
the spray by 10-50%.
25… Clean out your gun real good wait about 2-3 hours and mix up your
clear
26… spray one tack coat of clear followed by 2 to 4 wet coats of clear.
(use the same spray pattern of 10-50% overlap) You won’t be able to tell when it flashes, so it’s a good idea to wait
between 15 to 30 minutes between coats, or do the touch test.
NOT RECOMMENDED !!!
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!: THE TOUCH TEST....find a spot in the paint
that will not be seen when the car is finished, about 15 minutes after
spraying your clear, touch this spot with your finger, if it feels
sticky or tacky then your ready for the next coat, but if it stringy and
some if it clings to your finger as you lift it, then you still need to
wait.
27… Clean out your gun REAL GOOD
28… wait at least an hour before removing the masking, then let it sit
over night
29… the next day roll out your ride and let it “bake” in the sun for at
least a day
30…
Put your car back together, and you should be ready for a cruse.
HOPEFULLY THIS HELPS SOME PEOPLE WITH
THEIR QUESTIONS
Anything below this is optional and is more toward a nice or show car
type finish
1a… Now your ready to cut and buff, start by block sanding all the
orange peel, and any debris or bugs that may have gotten in your clear
off with 1500 -2000 grit wet sand paper
2a... Now lightly block sand again with 2500-3000 if desired
3a... Wash the car, and towel dry
4a… Start machine buffing with a medium cutting compound and a heavy
whole pad
5a… Now switch to a fine cutting compound and a fine whole pad or foam
pad
6a… buff again with swirl mark remover or machine polish with a fine
whole pad or foam pad
7a… wash the car, and towel dry
8a… hand polish DO NOT WAX, APPLY A PURE POLISH ONLY
Put your car back together, and you are ready for a cruse
click pictures below to see
available colors and more details
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Complete Paint Job Deluxe |
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Click Here For Color
Choices And More Details
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Start To Finish Urethane Candy Paint Job
Kit
includes:
1 Gal. of
Primer/ Surfacer/ Chemical Sealer (your choice of
buff or grey)
1 Qt. of Activator for the Primer
4 Qts of Quick Silver Base or a 3/4 gal. of Urethane
with Activator
4 Qts of Urethane Candy (your choice of color, you
can even mix and match)
1 Gal. of Vision Clear
3 Qts. of Activator for use in the Base , Candy, &
Clear
2 Qts. of Reducer for use in the Primer, Base, Color
or Clear
15 each Paint sticks & Paint strainers
1 each Spray suit & Spray sock
3 1 Qt. Mixing cups
6 Tack Rags
3 Rolls masking tape
Mixing instructions for all products
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